Cut or piece two borders that length. When you sew, you will have the border width and miter amount (5") + the seam allowance from the quilt hanging loose at the ends. Pin in place and allow quilt to dry overnight. My Jelly Roll Course: http://bit.ly/railfencejellyrollSubscribe for more DIY Videos! You can easily "square up" your quilt by adding borders that have been measured for perfection. This method gives you butted corners. Use a square ruler, the largest one you own, and put it in the corner. Slip the cutting ruler under the tape and be sure it is in the right place. Determine which borders to sew first to make the best use of your fabric. Use the same method, but measure horizontally first and start at the Short sides. In other words, in the example above, you would mark the border strip 5 1/4" from each end. This border is easy enough for beginners, yet looks impressive with many quilt styles. The horizontal measurement is 5 X 12" = 60" + 1/2". Tip:  Since I always square my units as I go and then square my blocks before assembling the quilt, I trust that a 12" block is really a 12" block and not 11.75" or 12.25". You must use a little judgment, possibly adding your long rotary ruler to the ends to be sure you will be able to continue the line you are trimming all the way down the side of the quilt. For practice, try this once on a 12" square - add multiple borders and practice your mitering skills without wasting a lot of fabric. If you have set your blocks on point, the measurement through the middle of the block is actually 1.414 X the outside measurement, a number I would just as soon NOT multiply out. Sew the strips together along their ends, press seam allowances open to reduce bulk, then trim the strip so that its length matches the measurement in Step 1. Measure the length and width of the quilt square. Attach these to the top and bottom of the quilt. For example, if the striped border is 3 1/2" wide, the cornerstone would be 3 1/2" wide. To make this angle, you have to work on the right side (rotating the quilt so the corner you need is always to the upper right). var today = new Date(); var year = today.getFullYear(); document.write(year); Use a ruler or plumb lines to be sure the vertical and horizontal seam lines in the quilt are straight. Cut two identical strips and sew on. Stitch to within 1/4" of the edge. To find how long each border piece needs to be, use this equation: length of quilt side + (width of the border x 2) + 6″ = Total Border Fabric Length of quilt side: … They can also be squares which you  fussy cut so that a special motif, like a flower, is centered in each square. Cut or piece two borders that length. Start measuring about 4″ in from the sides. Add up the lengths of all the sides. Each border piece is marked so that the amount you have left for the miter is not sewn to the body of the quilt. The first step in cutting long quilt borders is folding your fabric down to a manageable size that will fit on your cutting mat. 234 … This kind of seam uses more fabric than a butted seam. Up to 5 borders may be specified with the first border (Border1) being the innermost border. Note:  You may wish to block your quilt before trimming. Check out our quilting tutorials to find out how to add simple, attractive borders to your quilts. Pin the middle of the strip to the middle of the quilt, pin the ends, then pin the remaining areas, easing in any fullness. Then I punch in 37.5 to the calculator and click the Actual size button which includes the seam allowances. Second, the slap and sew has waviness in the borders indicating too much fabric on all four sides. Always measure your quilt top in 3 different places vertically before cutting side borders to make sure you have accurate measurements. Measure the quilt from side-to-side through its horizontal midpoint, including the width of the first borders. Sew carefully–it’s easy to get off track when sewing larger quilts. Place the border along the side of the quilt, right sides together and midpoints matched. For a coverlet, measure from the top of the mattress to slightly past the bottom of the bed rail. If you choose to do cornerstones, you just count your blocks, multiply, then add cornerstones the width of your border strips in each corner. Press. Cut 2 strips the width of the quilt plus twice the border width and 2″ inches extra and 2 strips the length of the quilt plus twice the border width and 2″ inches extra. Pin the middle of the strip to the middle of the quilt, pin the ends, then pin the remaining areas, easing in any fullness. trim away excess. For instance, for a quilt that measures about 60 inches x 80 inches, six 10 inch blocks across and eight 10 inch blocks down will fill the space, requiring 48 blocks. The seam allowance belongs to the main quilt BUT actually is not sewn. If the quilt seems to have fullness, put the body against the machine. This is for insurance purposes. For example, if your quilt top is 27" and you are adding a 3" border, you would cut two borders that are (27 + 3 + 3 + 4 1/2") or 37 1/2" inches long. Continue matching and pinning the border to the entire side of the quilt, pinning at close intervals if you must ease in fullness to coax the two lengths to match. Borders are usually sewn to the two longest sides of the quilt first and then to the remaining two sides with the final two extending straight across the ends of the first borders. Did you get it? Cut two borders to this size. © Copyright 2012- Sometimes you will find that it's best to add top and bottom borders first to avoid the need for piecing those border strips. Find the quilt's horizontal midpoint. 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